The kufiya (Or keffiyeh), a traditional Arabic garment initially worn by farmers and local nomadic tribes (the Bedouin), was first adopted by Palestinians as a symbol of resistance during the 1930s Arab Revolt. The symbolic significance of the kufiya may be traced to a time when the Palestinian people were fighting for independence from British colonialism, while also resisting the attempts of Western colonial powers to establish the nation-state of Israel on Palestinian land. Today, in the wake of the Israeli invasion of Palestine, the kufiya has also become a symbol of the world’s solidarity with Palestine.
Hirbawi, a factory in Hebron, has produced handmade kufiya in the heart of Palestine since 1961. With over 60 years of experience and generations spent dedicating their lives to the historical garment, the factory has become one of Palestine’s oldest Kufiya producers and its last one standing. Before, the brand managed to stand tall despite the pressures of globalization, competing against more affordable mass-produced goods. Now, they withstand the Israeli occupation with military checkpoints, roadblocks, damaged infrastructure and frequent military attacks hindering their trade. This is why the story of Hirbawi is aligned with the United Nations Sustainable Development Goal of Peace, Justice and Strong Institutions.
The Hirbawi kufiya are handmade using a specific traditional cross-stitching technique preserved for generations. This technique creates a two-tiered kufiya design; the first tier is the base which dominates most of the garment with a fishnet-like structure. The second tier is ornate patterns or flowers ( وردة) that create the kufiya’s borders. Despite using the aid of looms, craftsmen and women still have to manually cut each thread to create these kufiya patterns. The process concludes when tassels are individually constructed and hand-sewn onto the fabric.
One of the biggest reasons behind Hirbawi’s longevity is its ability to sell its products online through its website and social media channels. It has also partnered with Made in Palestine, a Palestinian-owned German business that further aids its international distribution. Another big reason is the passion of the people running the business, which has fueled it for over 60 years.
In an interview with Al-Jazeera, Abdulaziz al-Karaki, a Hirbawi craftsman who has been working there since he was fifteen years old shared, “I just want to keep working at this job, I love it so much, making quality keffiyehs that will mean as much for the people buying them as they do to me.” In the same interview, Izzat Yasser Hirbawi, one of the three Hirbawi sons who have inherited the brand also stated that for them, “The kufiya is not just something to earn money from. It preserves Palestinian heritage.”
Hirbawi’s journey as the last remaining kufiya factory in Palestine is a testament to resilient preservation and the enduring symbol of Palestinian identity. Despite the immense challenges posed by globalization and the Israeli occupation, Hirbawi continues to produce authentic, handmade kufiyas that embody the spirit of resistance and solidarity. The dedication of the craftsmen and women, along with the Hirbawi family’s commitment to preserving this cultural symbol, ensures that the kufiya remains not only a symbol of Palestine's ongoing struggle, but also a beacon of pride and tradition. As Yasser Hirbawi, the brand’s founder who passed away in 2018 put it, “It is our work and our life, and if God wills it, we will never stop producing original kufiyas made in Palestine.”
Find out more about kufiyas by Hirbawi on their website www.kufiya.org or Instagram @hirbawi.